Fly Tying Group
Fly of the Month

Step 1. We are using TMC 403 BLJ #8 with a 60 degree bend at the eye that will accommodate a slotted or slotted faceted tungsten bead nicely. Slip a tungsten slotted bead onto the hook and place the hook in the vise. 

Step 2. Secure the thread behind the bead and build a thread dam to secure the bead in place.

Step 3. Apply a drop of Super Glue onto the threads

Step 4. Wrap the thread back to the bend of the hook with touching wraps.

Step 5. Clip a section of Black Marabou fibers, keeping the tips aligned. Measure the section of marabou so that it is about 2 times the shank length of the hook.

Step 6. Place this section at the bend of the hook on the top of the shank and secure with a couple of tight thread wraps. Lift up the tag end of the fibers and clip them at an angle. Secure the tag ends with additional thread wraps.

Step 7. Repeat Step 6 and 7 with a section of Brown Marabou.

Step 8. Secure the second section with tight thread wraps. Trim off the tag ends and secure with thread wraps.

Step 9. Now, add the third section of Cream Marabou to the top of the previous two sections and secure with tight thread wraps. The pattern will invert due to the bead so that the Cream Marabou will look like the lighter portion of the baitfish body.

Step 10. Trim off the tag end of the third section.

Step 11. Wrap all of the tag ends once more with thread wraps and bring the thread directly in front of these tags..

Step 12. Take a piece of Flashabou and secure the flash just in front of the tag ends.

Step 13. Secure each end of the flash along the center of the shank wrapping to the base of the tail. Trim the flash so that it is just a bit longer than the tail.

Step 14. Create a dubbing loop at the base of the tail. Remember to take the thread around both strands of the loop to create a tight V. Bring the thread to behind the bead.

Step 15. Attach your dubbing loop tool to the loop and fill the V with loose dubbing. I am using Laser Hair dubbing. Tighten the loop by pulling on the tool.

Step 16. Spin the dubbing loop tool to create a brush. You can use a dubbing tool with a velcro end to pull out some of the fibers.

Step 17. Wrap the dubbing brush with touching wraps forward, stroking the fibers back with each turn.  Finish just behind the bead but don’t crowd this area as you need to add some more materials.

Step 18. Place a few tight thread-wraps behind the bead to secure the brush. Stroke the fibers forward and then back towards the tail with a dubbing brush that has a Velcro piece attached to it.

Step 19. Attach a red throat behind the bead. I am using Red Arctic Fox Body hair. Trim off the tag end and trim the throat so that it doesn’t exceed the mid-point of the shank.

Step 20. Now for the gamebird feather. I am using a back feather from a ruffed grouse. The fibers are long enough and the stem is supple enough to create a nice soft hackle collar. Remove the fluff from the bottom of the feather and preen back the fibers to expose a tip that you can secure behind the bead.

Step 21. Place the tip just behind the bead and secure with some tight thread wraps. The natural curve of the fibers should flow back towards the tail.

Step 22. Wrap the feather around the shank preening the fibers back so that the next couple of wraps do not catch the fibers of the previous turn. 

Step 23. Work these wraps forward. You usually can get about three turns until you reach the quill, then secure the quill against the hook shank with some tight thread wraps.

Step 24. A red thread collar is applied just behind the bead and finish with the whip finish.

Step 25. Apply some head cement to the thread collar. The finished Gamebird. It’s a weighted jig hook so the fly will naturally invert itself and allow for some bouncing on the bottom.